The Museum of Frankincense Land opened in 2007 near Salalah
at al Baleed Park in Omans southern region of Dhofar where
Boswellia trees grow. The museum is located in an archaeological
park of historic city-port Al Balid, selected by UNESCO in 2000,
as one of the four World Heritage Sites of the Land of Frankincense.
| Al Baleed is the ancient port located near Salalah,
Oman. Evidence from recent excavations has shown that the site
was inhabited in the pre-Islamic period. Since its origins, about
2000 BC in the Bronze Age and its continued rise in the late
Iron Age, it was a key center which dominated the East African,
Indian and Chinese trade. Both Arab and European historical references
indicate that it was rebuilt a number of times from the 4th century
AH (10th century AD) to its final demise around 618 AH (1221
AD). Al Baleed, the ancient Zafar of Arab historians was a prosperous
port and trading center. Arab travelers, including Ibn Mujawir
(1232 AD) and Ibn Battuta (1329 and 1363 AD) visited the city
and described its people and economy. Shifting economic, ecological
and political conditions along the North Indian Ocean led to
its slow demise by the mid 16th century AD. |
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Al Baleed's layout (above) is similar to other Southern
Arabian ports such as Sohar. The dark blue at the top of the
drawing above indicates the current ocean shoreline. A major
lagoon or khor is indicated by the smaller dark blue area below
the city. This is in essence a fresh water lake today. This lagoon
is created by a series of spring run-offs from the Dhofar hills,
thus providing al Baleed with an abundance of fresh water. The
light blue area shows how the shore line has expanded outward,
blocking the lagoon's connection with the sea. Eventually ships
could no longer enter the lagoon, and the port facilities became
distant to the sea.
Concerning its prosperity from foreign trade, smaller boats
would enter the lagoon to a customs house off-loading the cargo
from the ocean-going dhows anchored offshore. A formidable city
wall with perhaps four gates and associated bastions as described
by Ibn Mujawir (1232 AD) is at least 2 km long and 4 meters high
n places, protecting the western section of the city which covered
25 hectares. The large urban area dominated by formal buildings
such as mosques and houses can be seen along the western portion
of the city. The large open spaces of the eastern part of the
city may have held horse stables, sardine drying fields and frankincense
storage areas. The low lying hills of dressed stone rubble as
well as numerous artifacts strewn across the surface are indicative
of buried buildings.
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Above: The author and his wife stand beside a
frankincense tree, in the court yard of the Baleed Museum.
Right and below: The frankincense tree.
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Al Baleed's Grand Mosque
was the greatest building in the city. It covered an area
of 1,732 sq metres, had 144 stone pillars, a central courtyard
and a large minaret, which was at least 5 metres high. The mosque
was first built during the 10th century and remained in use until
the 16th century. Most of the columns you can see standing today
appear to be recent reconstructions, but some of the original
columns are laid out on the ground in front of the mosque. Other
original features which you can still clearly see are the mihrab
(pointing to Mecca) and the ablution area.
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